small greens and wide, tree-lined fairways is
the oldest continuously operating course west
of the Mississippi River. It is also a favorite among locals, among them my caddie at
Pebble Beach, who invited me to join him for
a game at Del Monte during my latest journey
there after we had finished on the big course.
I wanted to take him up on that offer but
decided to head back to the Stillwater Bar
and Grill instead, for a post-round beverage
and another chance to savor the spectacular
vistas there.
California, you see, had gotten me once
again. l; – J.S.
‘Poor Man's Pebble' And Other Options
Even though the Pebble Beach Resort boasts
four formidable courses, it is by no means the
only golf option in the area. Of course, heavenly
Cypress Point is close by, but only those with
seriously good connections get on that exclusive
track, which was designed by Alistair Mackenzie.
If you are not one of those but nonetheless
want to sample the Hall of Fame architect’s
work while in the area, take a trip to another
of his creations – the semi-private Pasatiempo
Golf Club, just 45 minutes away. Marion Hol-lins, the former U.S. Women’s Amateur champ
who helped Mackenzie design Cypress, founded
Pasatiempo in 1929. She and Mackenzie had
homes on the property, which is located in the
college town of Santa Cruz, and they frequently
Designer Alistair Mackenzie called the par- 4 16th at
Pasatiempo “the best two-shot hole I know.”
played the rugged track, whose undulating
fairways were designed to resemble those of the
Old Course in St. Andrews and whose devilish
greenside bunkering is so evocative of Mackenzie’s work at Cypress, Augusta National and
Royal Melbourne’s West Course.
The overall routing is very strong and so are
the many views of Monterey Bay that come into
play during a round, beginning with the elevated
tee on No. 1. Mackenzie once declared the 16th
at Pasatiempo to be “the best two-shot hole
I know,” and critics understandably rank the
layout among the finest classic courses in the
country. So does LPGA legend Juli Inkster, who
grew up playing there.
Another worthy option even closer to the resort is the Pacific Grove Golf Links, a charmingly
funky public course in a charmingly funky town.
The scenic front nine begins with a pair of par-
3s and winds through groves of cypress trees,
playing firm and fast like a Scottish track. Then,
the back nine heads to the sea, where the views
of crashing waves and jagged rock outcroppings
and fishing boats cutting through roiling water
are as stunning as the breezes are strong. This
part of the course is often dubbed the “poor
man’s Pebble Beach,” and it is a good analogy.
Pacific Grove is certainly not as well designed or
as well maintained as the five-time U.S. Open
site. But it is still a wonderful place to play. And
at less than $50 for a round, the price is right. l
